Rome | Italy 2011

After leaving France, we boarded an overnight train bound for Rome, and the journey itself turned out to be an adventure. We shared a cabin with a nice Indian couple. Later, two young men boarded in Dijon, but when we crossed into Switzerland, the night took an unexpected turn. Border patrol banged on our compartment door, waking us all up in the middle of the night. They searched the bags, discovered the men didn’t have the proper documentation, and promptly removed them from the train. It was a dramatic start to what would become an unforgettable visit to the Eternal City.

In Rome, we made our home at the Crowne Plaza Hotel, set in a quiet neighborhood a bit outside the city center but complete with the perfect luxury for summer travel—a pool. A fantastic little trattoria nearby quickly became our go-to spot, so good we couldn’t resist returning twice during our stay.

Rome itself was everything we had imagined and more. We began with St. Peter’s Basilica, the largest church in the world and one of the greatest achievements of Renaissance architecture. Standing beneath Michelangelo’s soaring dome, we felt both awe and humility, dwarfed by centuries of faith and artistry. At one point, we ducked into a quiet side chapel to pray. In that moment, I offered a simple prayer—that Tom and I would start a family. I didn’t tell him then, or even for years afterward. But when we returned home from that great European adventure, we discovered we were expecting our first child. That memory has made our visit to the Vatican forever unforgettable.

The Vatican Museums offered an endless treasure trove of history, from classical sculptures to Raphael’s frescoes, all culminating in the breathtaking Sistine Chapel. We craned our necks in silence, marveling at Michelangelo’s masterpiece, wishing photography were allowed so we could capture even a fragment of its glory.

Another highlight was the Pantheon, an ancient Roman temple turned Christian church. Nearly 2,000 years old, its massive dome remains the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. Looking up at the oculus—the open skylight at its center—we were amazed that such engineering brilliance has withstood the centuries, even with rain pouring freely through the opening onto the marble floors.

We wandered through the Roman Forum, once the bustling heart of the Roman Empire. Surrounded by ruins of temples, basilicas, and arches, it was easy to imagine senators, citizens, and merchants gathering here two thousand years ago. From there, we made our way to the mighty Colosseum, the largest amphitheater ever built. Walking through its arches and into the arena, we were struck by both the grandeur and the brutality of the spectacles it once hosted—gladiators, wild animals, and roaring crowds of 50,000 Romans. Before leaving the area, we caught a glimpse of the Circus Maximus, once the site of thrilling chariot races, and let our imaginations fill the empty track with pounding hooves and cheering voices.

Rome, however, is not only about ancient monuments. We adored its vibrant street life—fountains bubbling in hidden piazzas, sculptures around every corner, and markets bursting with color and energy. We lived on pizza for lunch and pasta for dinner, happily indulging in gelato breaks at every opportunity. Eating gelato on the Spanish Steps, with the hum of the city all around us, felt quintessentially Roman. Espresso became part of our daily rhythm, savored at tiny cafés between sightseeing adventures.

The warmth of the people made the city even more special. One afternoon, after finding a restaurant closed, the owner didn’t simply turn us away—he personally walked us down the street to another trattoria so we wouldn’t go hungry. That kindness left an impression just as lasting as any monument.

Our time in Rome was a feast for the senses and the spirit: history stretching back millennia, art and architecture beyond compare, food that delighted at every turn, and people whose generosity matched the city’s beauty. And tucked into it all, a quiet prayer in a side chapel that would change our lives forever.